Bobbi wrote her first novel, Cream with Your Coffin, and signed with a U.S.
literary agent who is now (still) pitching Cream
with Your Coffin to New York editors. Almost finished her second novel,
thriller De Rigueur Mortis, Bobbi is
already planning the second 1954 Paris thriller and thinking about a research
trip.
Channelling
Chanel
By Bobbi Mumm
As I do final revisions to my 1954 Paris
thriller, De Rigueur Mortis, I spend
a lot of time thinking about Coco Chanel.
The novel’s adventure revolves around Chanel and her Rue Cambon atelier and boutique. In 1954 Coco
Chanel presented her first collection in fifteen years – she’d closed her
premises when war was declared. She already had superstar status along with
notoriety as a probable Nazi collaborator.
It took her very little time to regain her position as the premiere
designer of haute couture. So what is
it about Chanel that keeps us fascinated? Why do we still talk about her, a
full hundred and two years after she opened her first hat shop in Paris? I
think the legend that was Coco Chanel has three roots:
1)
Chanel’s Drive and Personality
From the age of twelve, Coco Chanel was
raised in an orphanage where her father had abandoned her upon her mother’s
death. The nuns taught her to sew, demanded self-discipline, and placed her in
her first job at a hosiery shop. As well as these skills taught by the nuns, Coco
Chanel had a natural energy and unnerving charisma that swept everyone along
with her in the pursuit of her dreams.
2)
Chanel’s Talent and Vision
Coco Chanel revolutionized fashion. She
proclaimed that clothing should be comfortable (an unfashionable idea) and that
men should not be dressing women. Among Chanel’s many firsts:
Sunbathing: Chanel sported a sun-kissed
visage in 1920. Until then, most women prized a milky-white complexion.
Trousers for women: Coco Chanel borrowed
her lover’s trousers and wore them in public, naturally in the most chic manner
possible.
Little Black Dress: Chanel, in 1926,
released the first “Little Black Dress” as it came to be known.
Lipstick in a Swivel Tube: Before Chanel’s
1920’s innovation lipstick was in a pot.
Quilted handbags, fake pearls, chains as
jacket hem weights and as a visible accessory, knitted, comfortable fabrics for
women, ballerina pumps… The list goes on.
3)
Chanel’s Notoriety and Scandal
Chanel lived for two things, love and her
work. Her passion for the men in her life led her several times deep into
scandal and, once, near-imprisonment. As a young woman she lived in the world
of the demi-monde, the lover of a
succession of several rich play-boys, some of them married. Later, during WWII,
Chanel’s very public affair with a German officer and agent runner in Paris led
her to be arrested after the war on charges of collaboration. Scholars have
never agreed as to Chanel’s involvement as a spy, either only for the Germans
or, as a double-agent, working for the French and British. I choose to believe
the latter.
It is Chanel’s wartime activities that were
of great interest to me as I wrote De
Rigueur Mortis. In 1954, alleged wartime wrongdoing was still extremely
divisive in Paris society. Throw into the mix the start of the Algerian
revolution, France’s loss of Indo-China, and the throngs of young American’s
seeking their muse in Paris and I had a lovely, tumultuous canvas on which to
paint this mystery thriller.
Thank you to Kaye for this chance to write
about what I love. So tell me, what do you find most interesting or inspiring
about Coco Chanel?





