Saturday, March 29, 2014

Day Pass – Left Coast Crime



Saturday morning was spent on a road trip from the Central Valley so my Day Pass was half-shot before I even checked in at Left Coast Crime. I made it to the Portola’s DeAnza Room No. 2 just as the Thriller panel ended, and snapped my first photo of the afternoon—an achy-breaky snapshot that would scare small children on Halloween.



What’s my excuse? Would you believe an earthquake rumbled through as I snapped the shutter? No? Give me a minute. I’ll think of something. I have permission from Timothy Hallinan and Keith Raffel to post this photo. Great writers and good sports, those two.

Keith Raffel has served as counsel to the Senate Intelligence

Committee, founded an internet software company and taught writing at Harvard. Two of his thrillers made my all-time favorites list.



In A FINE AND DANGEROUS SEASON, set during the Cuban missile crisis, President Kennedy President Kennedy calls on a college friend to work behind the scenes, giving the Russians enough wiggle room to avoid war. In DOT DEAD, a Silicon Valley executive goes home at noon to change his mismatched socks and finds his housekeeper dead in his bed, making him the obvious suspect.

Keith brought me up to date on his thriller-in-progress. TEMPLE MOUNT moves from the wealthy enclave of Woodside, California to Jerusalem. Logline: A Silicon Valley entrepreneur finds himself heir to the secret of the lost Ark of the Covenant. You can read the first four chapters on Keith’s blog at http://keithraffel.typepad.com/. Be sure to follow the Kickstarter link to read how he fully funded the book in 30 days and how he uses “crowd editing.”



Timothy Hallinan lives half the year in Southeast Asia and half the year in Southern California. He has a life many writers might envy but he doesn't take it for granted or rest on his laurels. He’s juggling three series, with all titles available to his devoted readers. He doesn’t waste time. He wrote CRASHED, the first Junior Bender book, in six weeks.



Junior Bender is the crook's crook, for hire to L.A.’s underworld elite. THE FAME THIEF was a nominee for the Lefty Award at LCC. Lionsgate bought film/TV rights to the series.

HERBIE’S GAME is coming from Soho Press in July. It’s funny, reflective and beautifully written, with a darker edge than earlier books in the series. Junior suffers a great loss and tries to put his life into some kind of meaningful perspective while struggling with the idea that “if you can’t get closure, get even.” It’s a big book at more than 100,000 words, but the short chapters are laid out so skillfully that the story is easy to follow.


Also bought for film is THE FEAR ARTIST, a Poke Rafferty book. Set in Bangkok during the worst monsoon season in 60 years. Poke Rafferty gets caught in an assassination scenario against a backdrop of Washington D.C.'s fear that the Muslim uprising in Thailand could open a new Islamic terror front. A knockout book and one of my all-time favorites.

In the 1990s Tim wrote six novels featuring a Los Angeles private eye named Simeon Grist. All six have found new life as e-books, available for Kindle. In Tim’s words: “I’m up to my mustache in books.” In the works are a new Poke Rafferty book and a new Junior Bender.

Tim gave me another tsk-tsk nudge about finishing my second book, which has been stuck on Chapter 16 almost forever. Tim’s advice: “Just write the rest, put it away for two weeks, then go back and edit it.” Worth a shot. If I ever finish this recap I’ll try it.

Tim estimates that 98 per cent of all novels that people begin are never finished. He posted an excellent segment call “Finish Your Novel” on his blog. Check it out at




I was early for the Amateur Sleuth panel in DeAnza Room No. 2 so I had time for a photo and quick chat with Naomi Hirahara and Diane Vallere.





One of my favorite characters of the past few years is Mas Arai, an amiable, aging gardener introduced by Naomi in THE SUMMER OF THE BIG BACHI. Naomi has said that Mas Arai is modeled after her father Isamu, also known as “Sam.” Both the fictional character and the real man were in Hiroshima when the atom bomb was dropped 69 years ago—August 6, 1945.

Isamu was born in the U.S. but taken to Japan as a small child. In a 2011 interview on National Public Radio (NPR) Naomi says both of her parents were in Hiroshima when the bomb was dropped. Her mother, Mayumi, lived in the countryside, but her father was only a few miles from ground zero. She believes his after-school job at the Hiroshima train station saved Isamu Hirahara's life.

 Eventually, Isamu returned to the U.S. (and) settled in the hills above Pasadena … The hostility toward Japanese — including Japanese-Americans — made it hard for many to find jobs, regardless of their education or background. Hirahara wanted to reflect that struggle in her books.

Naomi’s latest adventure is a new series starring Officer Ellie Rush, a rookie LAPD bike cop who dreams of becoming a homicide detective. Berkley will release MURDER ON BAMBOO LANE on April 1.



Diane Vallere is a new author to me and I love the introduction—PILLOW STALK.



Madison Night owns Mad For Mod, an interior decorating business in a small Texas town near Dallas, about as far as she could get from Pennsylvania. She's running from a broken heart and she's stuck in the 1950s. She wants to be Doris Day.

Pushing 50, Madison could have stepped out of a Doris Day movie—blonde hair, blue eyes, cute vintage clothes. Her only competitor, Pamela, is also into '50s-style decorating. Unfortunately for both decorators, Pamela ends up dead, with her feet sticking out from underneath Madison's car. Somebody out there is not a fan of Doris Day lookalikes.

Diane also writes the Style & Error Mystery series (currently optioned for TV), and has a new series coming from Berkley Prime Crime in November. The Material Witness Mystery Series features Polyester Monroe who inherits a fabric store from her great uncle.

Diane spent 20 years in the fashion business and is currently President of the Los Angeles Chapter of Sisters in Crime. Lord luv a duck. These people make me feel like such slug.

Naomi moderated the Amateur Sleuth panel, which included Christine Goff, Helen Smith and Rochelle Staab.

Christine Goff writes the Birdwatcher’s Mystery series with a focus on environmental themes. DEATH SHOOTS A BIRDIE (2007) was last in the series, currently out of print.

Currently with her agent is a thriller set in Israel.

Helen Smith lives in London, as in England. Her new comic mystery series features amateur sleuth Emily Castles. In INVITATION TO DIE, Emily is hired to help at an international conference of romance writers. She works with the guest speaker to solve the murder of an American blogger. No, that’s not a spoiler. Smith tells us in the first sentence that the blogger's invitation to the conference is an invitation to die. This is a book I have to read.

Rochelle Staab is a former radio programmer and music industry executive. Her BRUJA BROUHAHA won the 2013 Watson Award for Best Sidekick at last year’s Left Coast Crime. The series sleuths are psychologist Liz Cooper and occult expert Nick Garfield.

In the award-winning book Liz and Nick attend a 60th anniversary celebration for a pair of Santeria practitioners. Liz tries her hand at a divination ritual using four chunks of unshelled coconut. She asks a question and tosses the coconut chunks like dice. All four chunks fall skin up, signifying death. Everyone pretends not to believe the warning, but death breaks up the party brutally and unexpectedly.

This was a lively panel. Moderator Naomi Hirahara got the audience laughing by saying, “Welcome to ASS—A-S-S—Amateur Sleuth Saturday.” She kept things moving by asking questions for panelists to answer without notes. For example, she quoted Stephen King who said that people like to peek into the jobs of other people. Panelists responded by talking about the jobs held by their characters: bird watching, psychology, alternate religions, gardening.

Naomi pulled the audience in by asking them to laugh loud and hysterically, and you never heard such a racket. An hour with ASS was an hour of fun.


And then it was time for a coffee break. My one regret was that I had to skip the hospitality room. It was located down a flight of steps with no ramp and I was trundling along with a walker. I trundled out of the lobby and across the way to the coffee shop. It was a great place, with wall-to-wall windows for watching the passing parade. Then it was back to the lobby to park myself in an alcove and catch 40 winks before meeting the Oak Tree Press group in Jack’s Bar.






Amazing, what you can pack into an afternoon. I met some favorite authors. I hoisted a glass and chowed down in Jack’s Bar with a lively group of Oak Tree authors. Hmmmm, well, I ordered a Diet Coke and a club sandwich, but the company was as bubbly as a glass of champagne. Billie Johnson, Publisher of Oak Tree Oak Tree Press, hosted the informal gathering.

From Cora Ramos’s web site: "My first novel, DANCE THE DREAM AWAKE, emerged from a personal experience that occurred to me while in Mexico in 1987 during the Harmonic Convergence." Set in the Yucatan, it is billed as a paranormal romantic suspense. Cora explores the past lives of her two main characters in her work-in-progress, a "sizzling romance set in Heian Japan, 980 AD.” Cora’s panel was Turning Up The Heat On The Amateur Sleuth.



Denise Weeks (aka Shalanna Collins) brought her family to Monterey for a full-fledged vacation. Left Coast Crime was the launch venue of her Bliss Sisters Magical Adventure Series with APRIL, MAYBE JUNE. Her panel was Turning Up The Heat On The Amateur Sleuth.




My favorite of Denise’s books will always be MURDER BY THE MARFA LIGHTS. Marfa is a quirky little town in West Texas where unexplained ghost lights have tantalized locals and tourists since Civil War Days. Dallas resident Ari gets a phone call saying her runaway lover, Aaron, has died in Marfa and left her his substantial estate. Before she discovers what he was really up to, she meets a snake handler, a character who collects poisonous spiders, an Apache lawyer who listens to Navajo prayers on his car radio, and a musician who keeps a pet wolf and smuggles illegal aliens. She also survives the evil intentions of a murderer who wants Aaron’s money-making scheme for himself. A great read!

Marta Chausee’s debut novel, MURDER'S LAST RESORT, won the 2012 Dark Oak Mystery Contest. The novel features Maya French, whose husband owns a luxury hotel in Orlando, Florida. The hotel hosts a conference of upper management but when bodies start piling up, Maya decides to ignore the local cops and do her own nosing around to unmask a killer.

You’d never guess to look at her but last year was the year from hell for Marta. She tells all in Lelia Taylor’s Buried Under Books blog and ends with this:
(Quote) My life is a mess. I’m depleted. Moody and living in boxes in my new place–darling but tiny. I hate my life and what is happening to it. I see my Clydesdale future before me–poor, fat, old, and involuntarily celibate. They shoot horses, don’t they? (End Quote)

Ouch! Maybe a rush of readers to buy her book will help. Meantime, she joined Cora and Denise on the panel Turning Up The Heat On The Amateur Sleuth.




Rabbi Ilene Schneider has a gold-plated bio. Let’s just say she is a retired hospice chaplain and author of the Rabbi Aviva Cohen Mysteries – CHANUKAH GUILT and UNLEAVENED DEAD. First published by Swimming Kangaroo in paperback in 2007, the e-book edition of CHANUKAH GUILT was published by Oak Tree in January 2014.  In this series debut Rabbi  Aviva Cohen's life takes a sinister turn when she officiates at an unpopular land developer's funeral and the funeral results in suicide -- or murder.

Ilene’s work–in-progress, YOM KILLER, is about suspicious deaths in a senior citizens facility. Her panel was Unusual Sleuths:Your Day Job Is What?

Sharon A. Moore lives in the desert Southwest and writes full-time after retiring from 39 years as an educator. MISSION IMPASTABLE introduced her "Dinner is Served" culinary mystery series. The protagonists are Alli and her long-time friend Gina who form a personal chef business. Things go well until their first customer ends up dead—from food poisoning. There’s an interesting book trailer on You Tube at http://tinyurl.com/n8kdh47  Sharon also writes sizzling romances under the pen name Angelica French.

Lorna Collins and Larry Collins have been married 47 years. Among other projects during a busy life, they helped build a Universal Studios theme park in Osaka, Japan. A writing team, their newest book is an historical novel, THE MEMORY KEEPER, set in San Juan Capistrano. The story is told by a Juaneno Indian who has lived under three flags—Spain, Mexico and the United States. Lorna was on the Small Press v. Independent Panel. Larry was a panelist for Day On The Beach: Murder At The Seashore

D.R.(Diane) Ransdell is a writer, a writing teacher, a traveler and a musician. Wait, there’s more. She moonlights as a mariachi player. She moderated The Character-Driven Mystery

Oak Tree published D.R.’s first mystery, MARIACHI MURDER, in2013. A dangerous woman, a guilty conscience and a mariachi band in jeopardy bedevil Andy Veracruz, all in the midst of a Southern California heat wave. Just wrapping up is ISLAND CASUALTY which takes Andy to Greece. He plans to spend his days swimming and his nights making love. Dream on, Andy.

Writers who stopped in included (not pictured) Marilyn Meredith and M.M. Gornell.




Marilyn Meredith lives near Central California’s Tule River Reservation, which she calls Bear Creek Reservation in her popular, long-running Tempe Crabtree series. Marilyn is like the Energizer Bunny who just keeps going, and going, and going. Marilyn was a panelist for Writing The Native American Protagonist.

M.M. (Madeline) Gornell lives in California’s high desert and writes the Route 66 Mysteries. Her books consistently win awards. Among them is a standalone with a catchy title: DEATH OF A PERFECT MAN. She expects to release RHODES this year. Madeline was on the panel discussion of Small Press Versus Independent.

And so Left Coast Crime goes into the archives. A tip of the hat to the conference organizers and volunteers, and to the hotel staff. They worked miracles.


Books and Cupcakes Book Photo Challenge - March 29



"Outside"



Monday, March 17, 2014

Books and Cupcakes Book Photo Challenge - March 18


"Makes Me Smile"




The High Country Festival of the Book (HCFB) and associated author events are organized by the Friends of the Watauga County Public Library to draw attention to the importance of books, reading, and literacy.  
Picture
FRIDAY, JUNE 27     
TALES OF IMAGINATION & MYSTERY DINNER
With Author of Mrs. Poe, Lynn Cullen
At the Boone Golf Club 
Join us for this fund-raising dinner to support the 
Friends of the Library & the High Country Festival of the Book  
Tickets to go on sale April 1


Lynn Cullen is the author of The Creation of Eve, named one of the best fiction books of the year by The Atlanta Journal-Constitution; and Reign of Madness, nominated for the Townsend Prize for fiction. She is also the author of numerous award-winning children’s books, including I Am Rembrandt’s Daughter.  Her newest book, Mrs. Poe is an 2013 NPR Best Read, one of the Atlanta Journal's Best Books of 2013, Editor's Pick in Historical Novels Review, and one of Oprah's Books That Make Time Stand Still.  An avid traveler and historian, she lives in Atlanta, Georgia. http://lynncullen.com

1.    A question many writers hear during book signings is "where do
you get your ideas?"  How would you answer this?   Usually I get hooked by something I've read or seen in a museum.  People who have been maligned by history are my favorites—all my books are about people who have had horrible PR, so to speak.  Edgar Allan Poe, victim of the worst smear job in literary history, was just my sort of guy.

2.  Writers often say they're surprised by some things their
characters might do.  Have you experienced this?  If so, do you let
them just run loose for awhile to see where they'll take you or do you
manage to keep them under control at all times?  Ha!  Control them?  I live for my characters to run amuck.  For me as a writer, it’s my biggest thrill to let my characters take me on a wild joyride as I write.  I do very little planning ahead of time—I just have an inkling of the climax—and let the characters show me the way.  The discoveries they reveal to me are worth the years I have to put in
behind a computer screen. 

3. Is there a particular author who inspires you?  I am inspired most by the British writer, Penelope Lively.  I admire her sharp observational powers of human nature, her economy of words, and the deft way that she conveys emotional information between the lines of her stories.   I’m fascinated by how much we humans say to each other is actually unspoken, and Lively is the
master of the heartbreak of the unsaid.   She also inspires me because she started out writing children’s novels, just as I did, and went on to win the Booker Prize for her adult work.  Now that’s inspirational!

4. Is there a book you loved so much, you wish you could re-read it
again for the first time?  I love Penelope Lively’s HEAT WAVE and re-read it to jump-start me whenever I get stuck in my own writing.  WUTHERING HEIGHTS
serves the same purpose.   A more recent book that dazzled me is BEAUTIFUL RUINS.  Reading it each night was a wondrous discovery.

5.  What book(s) are on your nightstand right now?  Alice Munro’s DEAR LIFE is taunting me from the stack piled up next to my lamp.

Books and Cupcakes Book Photo Challenge - March 17



"Newspaper/Magazines"







Thursday, March 13, 2014

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Book Photo Challenge - March 2



Recommendation


Actually, I have two 






"Oh, Kaye!"



I love it when the first Sunday of the month rolls around, and I get to play "Oh, Kaye!" at Jungle Red.  Today I'm chatting about going to Birmingham and losing my status as a "panel virgin." I hope you'll drop by and say "Hey!"  -  http://www.jungleredwriters.com/2014/03/oh-kaye-goes-to-birmingham.html

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Book Photo Challenge - March 1

The Last Book I Read






New Photo Challenges

I loved the photo group I was in.  Loved it to pieces!

But, it became too much for me to be involved in and still write and do the other things that need to be done (like laundry, vacuuming, etc - you know, those things).  So I dropped out, but I have missed it.  I still take a lot of pictures, but having that daily prompt helped me move outside my comfort zone with my photos, and that was a good thing.

Today, I ran across this list on Facebook and have decided to give it a try.

Photos and Books - two of my favorite things!



Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Where I am Today

Today I'm hanging out with my blogging pal Mason Canyon at her delightful "Thoughts in Progress."

We're giving away a freebie of my Whimsey audiobook.

If you're interested, I hope you'll drop by and say "Hey!" - http://masoncanyon.blogspot.com/2014/02/whimsey-novel-on-audio-plus-giveaway.html

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Contest - Win an audio version of Whimsey: A Novel

We have two winners - Debbie Turner and Lisa Richardson 

email me please at barleykw at appstate.edu and I'll send you instructions on how to get your copies.

Thanks, everyone!!!!  And we will do it again.  Also, some of my blogging buddies will be offering free copies, so if you'll check here, and at my Facebook page, I'll be announcing the details as they happen.









Want to win an audiobook of Whimsey?

Just leave a comment below.

I'll be drawing two names for the give-away, and will post them here on Friday evening.

you can hear a sample here:
http://www.amazon.com/Whimsey-A-Novel/dp/B00IAAYD5A/ref=sr_1_1_title_2_audd?ie=UTF8&qid=1392847254&sr=8-1&keywords=Whimsey%3A+A+Novel



note:  if your comment doesn't show up right away, please don't worry.  I'm moderating all comments, and I may not be at my laptop when you leave yours.  Sorry for the inconvenience.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

February 18 - Happy Birthday, Toni Morrison


Toni Morrison once said, “If there's a book that you want to read, but it hasn't been written yet, then you must write it.” 




and so I did.




thank you, and





Happy Birthday, Ms. Morrison!!!! 







Monday, February 17, 2014

High Country Festival of the Book Update



We are starting to line up authors for the High Country Festival of the Book - check 'em out! 


More to come!

AND, the application for exhibitors (this includes exhibiting authors) is also up. 

http://www.highcountryfestivalofthebook.com/exhibitor-application.html

Hope to see lots of familiar faces here in Boone in June.

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Dancing Down the Danube by Pat Browning


A native Oklahoman and award-winning newspaper reporter, Pat Browning set  her first mystery, ABSINTHE OF MALICE (original title: FULL CIRCLE) in California's Central San Joaquin Valley, where she has lived for many years. After an 8-year sojourn in Oklahoma, she’s back in the Valley and is still working on her second mystery, METAPHOR FOR MURDER.
***




Kaye, thank you for another chance to ramble down memory lane. Since I never know when to shut up and sit down, I will do it in three parts – my visits to the three jewels of the Danube River – Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade. I’m also including a brief look at mysteries set in those locales.
***


"I've Danced With A Man, Who's Danced With A Girl, Who's Danced With The Prince Of Wales."

Well ... not exactly. I’ve talked to a woman who met Tom Brokaw in an elevator but it seemed like a big deal at the time.

The line from a 1927 song keeps coming back when I read gossipy news about Prince George of Cambridge, grandchild of the late Princess Diana and third in line to be King of England. The king-in-waiting, Charles, Prince of Wales, is now old enough to draw his pension even though he has never been a king. A TV documentary a few years ago revealed that Charles told Diana he didn’t intend to be the first Prince of Wales who didn’t have a mistress. It would be hilarious if it weren’t somehow so sad.

But back to Tom Brokaw and Vienna in June, 1979.

Tom Brokaw and I were both staying in the Vienna Hilton, but the closest I got to him was the lady who met him in the elevator. I was a tourist. He was covering the Salt II talks between U.S. President Carter and Soviet General Secretary Brezhnev. I skulked around the hotel lobby for a little while, hoping for a glimpse of the famous newsman. No luck. Went up to the mezzanine where the press handouts were. Nobody there.



And so I left Vienna without dancing with the Prince of Wales, but not before I came face to face, so to speak, with Carter and Austrian Chancellor Bruno Kreisky. Pastry chefs at Demel, Vienna’s famous coffee house, sculpted Carter and Kreisky out of dough, life-size and in living color, and put them in a front window. Truly, an amazing sight.

What can I say about Vienna that hasn’t been said over and over again? It’s a beautiful, historic city. It also has its dark side. A classic movie, “The Third Man,” about black marketers, is set in occupied Vienna at the close of World War II.  It was a spooky movie and the zither music is haunting. The original soundtrack, with Anton Karas playing the zither, can be heard on You Tube at


Historical note: After Germany’s surrender in World War II, Russia, the United States, England and France divided Austria into four military zones, keeping a tight grip from 1945 to 1955. Graham Greene’s depiction of Vienna’s black market had its basis in fact, and the book was a “treatment” for the film. The New York Times of March 19, 1950 quotes Graham Greene as saying: “The Third Man was never written to be read but only to be seen.”

And perhaps Vienna itself is mainly meant to be seen. A colorful example is the burial of the late Otto con Habsburg, who died in 2011. Quoting the UK's Daily Mail newspaper, "His death brings to a close 640 years of European history."
Von Habsburg's body was buried in Vienna but his heart was buried in Budapest, and both cities pulled out all the stops. There are scads of photos and they are stunning. Do yourself a favor and go to the Daily Mail article at

And you thought the Brits had a lock on pomp and ceremony, right?


 


 It’s about 150 miles from Vienna to Budapest and you can make the trip by boat, by train or by car. Hungary has an old and checkered past. Russia claimed it after World War II, and rolled tanks into Budapest to crush a 1956 uprising. When I was there, Hungary operated under a kind of “goulash communism.” Shell holes still pocked the Citadella, an old fortress overlooking the Danube, and a Russian statue stood on the roof.


The Citadella is on the Buda side of the Danube, with a sweeping view of the river, its eight bridges and the city. One balmy evening our group had dinner there and afterward walked outside to enjoy the city lights. “It looks like Oakland,” someone said. Well, maybe, if you could forget the bullet holes in the walls behind us.

Budapest was beautiful but the people seemed tense, happy to have tourists but wary. It wasn’t surprising, considering the terrors they lived through at the hands of the Nazis, followed by the Communists. Out in the countryside people were freer and more talkative. Still, there were remnants of the past.

In one small town our tour bus passed through there were still loudspeakers on telephone phones, only now Hungary’s storks were building nests there. I got one of my all-time favorite travel photos by pressing my camera against a window and snapping a stork on the nest.





The stork is a good luck symbol in Hungary, bringing babies and preventing house fires. Year after year, storks fly in from Africa to spend the summer. Through Hungary’s darkest years the storks returned to nest on telephone poles. In this rapidly changing world, that’s nice to know.


For a fact-based fictional look at Budapest past and present read William S. Shepard’s MURDER ON THE DANUBE. Surviving Freedom Fighters of the 1956 revolution became politicians, bankers and bureaucrats, still uneasy about their pasts. The author alternates past and present, picking up stories of known survivors as they prepare to meet again at a Parliament reception. The novel’s protagonist is "Robbie" Cutler, Political Officer for the American Embassy.

The pace quickens when a Freedom Fighter who emigrated to New Jersey arrives in Budapest to see about building a memorial to the 1956 Revolution. He wants a statuary group of Freedom Fighters similar to the Korean Memorial in Washington D.C. Before he can meet with Robbie to discuss his plans, he is murdered.

The American ambassador asks Robbie to look into the murder. The investigation takes on aspects of a traditional police procedural—ferreting out friends and relatives who might know something about the victim's movements and his murder. Everyone remembers the Revolution and Robbie surmises that "nostalgia would be a leading Hungarian product."

The diplomatic world as painted here is a small, gossipy one, almost a closed society, with most of the action taking place at social functions or in cafes, over coffee. The ending would fit an Agatha Christie "Poirot" novel, with interested parties gathered in the private dining room of a secluded restaurant for a review of the investigation and unmasking of the murderer.

Author William S. Shepard is a former career diplomat who served as Consul and Political Officer at the American Embassy in Budapest. He was made an Honorary Hungarian Freedom Fighter at the 25th anniversary of the 1956 Hungarian Revolution.


If you like black humor and are in an experimental mood, you might try UNDER THE FROG by Tibor Fischer, published in the UK by Polygon in 1992 and in the U.S. by Picador in 2001. It’s available in paperback at Amazon. The title is from a Hungarian expression meaning the worst possible place to be is "under a frog's arse at the bottom of a coal mine.”

The story follows a Hungarian basketball team on the payroll of the Hungarian railroad. They travel naked around the country, thinking mostly about sex and escaping from Communist Hungary. The story ends with the 1956 revolution.

The author is a British-born Hungarian who spoke at the 2012 Hay Festival in Budapest. An article in The Telegraph newspaper quotes him as saying, “My father really was a basketball player and really did travel round the country in a railway carriage with his fellow players, naked for some of the time...” The article and a good photo of Fischer are at



Photos: Stork photo © 1979-2014 Patricia Cokely Browning; Budapest photo from Hilton Budapest Hotel web site; 1956 Uprising photo from NATO web site.


  

Because of Yugoslavia—Land of the South Slavs—I never got to Ireland. I never got to Egypt. I never got to Australia. I just kept going back to Yugoslavia, surely one of the most beautiful and historic places on Planet Earth.

I traveled through Yugoslavia both during Tito's time and after he died. It was rugged terrain, 70 percent mountains and a prime region for hunting and fishing. Consider this: there were 40 miles of paved road in the entire country when WWII broke out.

The Nazis came in blowing up bridges and villages; their fighter planes strafed people in the streets of Belgrade and there were concentration camps outside of town. With no roads to speak of, Nazi tanks weren't much use. The people just went up into the hills and lived with the Partisans, or guerrillas, and the Nazis couldn't get to them there unless they wanted to go on foot.

In the 1970s, after Tito broke with Russia and decided to open the country to tourists, the Yugoslavs started building roads and hotels and doing everything they could to encourage Westerners to come. The Yugoslavs were going great guns with their expansion when I was there the last time, in November, 1982. Something I will never forget: I was in a tour bus rolling through a rural area on a brand new road—built in such a hurry that it sliced a little steepled church in half. The half that was left still stood beside the road.

In 1999, during Yugoslavia’s war in Kosovo, NATO forces bombed Belgrade. Three downed U.S. Army soldiers were captured and held for a month. The Rev. Jesse Jackson led a religious delegation to Belgrade and the soldiers were turned over to him. When TV news announced that Jackson's party would take the three Americans by bus from Belgrade to Zagreb, I thought, yeah, I was there when they were building that highway.

It’s 196 miles from Budapest to Belgrade, where the Danube meets the Sava River on its way to the Black Sea.
I loved Belgrade, although I never heard anyone else say a good word for it. One of my favorite memories is of a winter night in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s lamplit Bohemian quarter. Packed cafés, everyone eating, singing, slugging down plum brandy. When the clock struck nine, rolling blackouts kicked in and waiters brought candles. Nobody missed a note or a drop. The blackouts were scheduled power shutdowns, section by section throughout the city, due to an energy crisis.


According to Wikipedia, Skadarlija was a gypsy settlement before it became the main bohemian quarter of Belgrade. The guest list is impressive, everyone from Alfred Hitchcock to George H.W. Bush. 

The Times of London reported that Europe's best nightlife can be found in Belgrade. In the Lonely Planet’s "1000 Ultimate Experiences" guide of 2009, Belgrade was placed at the first spot among the top 10 party cities in the world.

Yugoslavia didn’t survive Tito. It’s a lot of separate republics now. The Republic of Macedonia is still in a “silent war” with Greece; you can stand in Greece and look across a field at the disputed territory. Serbia wants to join the 28-nation European Union, a process expected to take several years. They’ll make it. The South Slavs have staying power and they are a feisty lot.

Further south, on the Adriatic Coast, is the city of Split, a famous seaport in what is now the Republic of Croatia. It’s early evening. Our tour group checks into a hotel overlooking the seaside promenade and I decide to stroll into town. I’m part of an exotic mix that includes sailors who might have stepped right out of Gilbert and Sullivan’s “The Mikado.” Along the way I pass a building with a huge painting of Tito on the street-side façade. In the back, on a pavilion over the water, young Slavs are dancing to “Boogie Shoes.” I still laugh when I think about it.


A Google search turned up some crime fiction titles but I can’t honestly recommend any of them. They’re too grim for my taste, especially those set in Sarajevo. What I can recommend is a You Tube video of a Belgrade dance troupe doing a traditional dance. Be advised, it’s loud. They really whoop it up, and the costumes are gorgeous. It’s at http://tinyurl.com/ojhqf25

You might also rent or buy the DVD of  “The Yellow Rolls Royce,”  a 1984 movie that follows the ownership of a 1930s yellow Rolls Royce Phantom ll during the years up to and including the start of World War ll. Its third owner is a wealthy American socialite played by Ingrid Bergman.

Time and place: 1941, Trieste on the Yugoslavia border. Enter Omar Sharif, a partisan hero with a price on his head. Over Bergman’s objections, he smuggles himself into Yugoslavia in the trunk of the yellow Rolls Royce. Bergman’s elegant, imperious manner at the border checkpoint is a delight. The scenery is breathtaking. How close the movie comes to reality I can’t say, but some of it was filmed on location and it’s great entertainment.

*Photo of Skadarlija from Wikipedia.


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